Tucked Away Tuscany: Bagni San Filippo’s Incredible Natural Hot Springs
This past weekend I had one of the coolest experiences of my life thus far in Italy. During my weekend Tuscan getaway I was finally able to cross something off of my Italy bucket list that I have been dying to do for ages-visit one of Italy’s natural hot springs. After ogling over pictures of Tuscany’s amazing outdoor natural thermal pools for months, I was ecstatic when my weekend getaway lead me a short bus ride away from the Bagni San Filippo, a thermal area known for its hot springs since before the Romans.
While I was originally looking into heading to Saturnia Hot Springs, one of Italy’s more famous thermal retreats, distance and lack of direct public transportation had me looking closer to home, but the Bagni San Filippo exceeded my expectations in every way.
Getting There
Just a 25 minute bus ride from my Airbnb, I arrived at the Bagni San Filippo and literally followed a sign to a rather poorly marked trail that lead to San Filippo’s thermal areas.
After climbing down a treacherous (and muddy) steep trail, I arrived at the first set of baths. Though there were people hanging out in them, I had researched the springs before going and knew that there were even more to discover further down the trail.
The Trail
Already the surrounding forest, sounds of trickling water, and promise of thermal baths to come had me wanting to jump in the first pools I found, and it was difficult to retrain myself from doing so. However, the path running alongside the stream was calling me, so I continued walking on.
As it is the wet season, the trail was very muddy, so I was extremely happy I brought my rain boots. I will admit, I spent much of the walk holding onto the wooden railing for dear life and praying I didn’t slip and fall in a pile of mud.
Fosso Bianco
After a particularly rough patch, I looked up and spotted the Fosso Bianco a massive sulfur deposit also named ‘the white whale’ or ‘the glacier’. This huge sulfur mound is one of several in the area, but is given these names due to its massive size and unique shape.
During the summer months it appears white, but when I visited early this spring it had more yellow, brown, and rust coloring due to temperature changes. I was absolutely awed by this incredible creation of nature, and I could have sworn I was in Yellowstone National Park, not Tuscany.
The Baths
When I was done staring at the Fosso Bianco in wonderment, I headed along the trail and found what I was searching for-the perfect hot springs to soak in. Unlike the larger and flat pools I had been passing along the way (that my traveling companion was begging me to stop at) these pools were unique, small, and personal. Instead of holding groups of 5-10, these pools would only fit 1 or 2 people, and I was lucky enough to spot one that was open. The only challenge was that these pockets of thermal water were located on a large hill (or small mountain depending on how dramatic you are).
The spring I picked was just left of the girl climbing to a higher spring.
Being the adventurer I am, I headed up, camera and bags in hand, in shoes with absolutely no traction and managed not to fall off the mountain and into someone else’s private spring (thank God).
After getting into my suit I finally settled in and was able to enjoy the warm water trickling down into the pool from further up the ‘mountain’.
The mini waterfall next to me made the experience even more relaxing, and it wasn’t too long before I was treating myself to a mud bath with the nutrient-filled sediment at the bottom of the pool. After all, when in Rome (or at least baths Ancient Romans bathed in) do as the Romans do.
My skin has never been softer!
Sitting there in my own personal hot spring, on the side of a ‘mountain’, surrounded by forest, I was in awe that places like this exist, and how luck I am to be able to experience them.
Unfortunately, the bus schedule only left me with a couple hours at the hot springs, so I enjoyed what time I had left in nature’s jacuzzi. When it was time to get out, I was not ready to leave this Tuscan oasis, but I didn’t want to be stranded after missing a bus so I dragged myself out, quickly changed, and headed back to the bus stop, this time feeling rejuvenated and with much softer skin.
Though there are a myriad of things to do in Tuscany from amazing museums, historic churches, wine tastings, and more, if you are looking for something a little off the beaten path to do in Tuscany, a visit to Bagni San Filippo is an absolute must.
A view of some of the pools below.
Looks like I have another adventure to add: Bucket List Italy: 20 Unforgettable Adventures To Add To Your List! Would you make a trip to Bagni San Filippo? What’s the coolest thing you’ve done in Italy?
